The Neophyte's Custom Liquid Cooling Guide: How To, Why To, What To Expect
by Dustin Sklavos on September 30, 2013 12:01 AM ESTSo we've seen all the stuff that connects together, but fat lot of good it'll do us if we don't actually have waterblocks.
To handle our toastiest components, Swiftech sent along their Apogee HD waterblock for the Core i7-4770K and two of their KOMODO-NV waterblocks for the GeForce GTX 780s. Astute observers may find the waterblocks for the GeForces familiar. That's because Swiftech actually manufactures the waterblocks EVGA employs on their Hydro Copper cards. The Hydro Coppers are basically reference cards with faster BIOSes and Swiftech's KOMODO-NV waterblock pre-affixed. In effect, I'll be building my own pair of Hydro Coppers.
The Apogee HD comes with two barbs pre-installed, but is actually capable of supporting up to four. This allows you to run multiple components in parallel instead of a conventional serial cooling loop; since I'm intimidated enough by just trying to get the whole thing working, I stuck to just using the two. The KOMODO-NV can also be used to run multiple lines in parallel, but again I opted to run a single serial line.
Tools You'll Need
Here's information I wish I had when I started, prior to multiple runs to Orchard Supply and Home Depot, but now you'll have it. In addition to a firm grip and stellar upper body strength for affixing the compression fittings, you're going to need the following tools, bare minimum:
- Phillips head screwdrivers (one standard, one precision)
- Flathead screwdriver
- 8" adjustable wrench
- Multiple SAE wrench kit (not essential, but very helpful)
- Precision torx screwdriver kit (needed for any current generation GeForce)
The screwdriver kits I thankfully all had since almost everything we normally do when we build systems involves a screwdriver, but the wrenches I needed to get separately. These are specifically for attaching fittings and caps to ports that don't already have barbs on them (barbs being the conical ports for liquid to pass through).
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hot120 - Monday, September 30, 2013 - link
Awesome article!blanarahul - Monday, September 30, 2013 - link
Hmm.. Can you try cooling those 780s alone? Overclocking the CPU seems pointless on Haswell.valkyrie743 - Monday, September 30, 2013 - link
overclocking haswell is not pointless. just is a pain (same with ivy bridge) cause intel decided to be cheap and not solder the IHS to the cpu. if you do a mild overclock its fine give or take how bad the tim on the cpu/ihs is. but if you plan on doing high overclocks and water cooling like this. you might as well de-lid the cpu and apply your own tim. temps on air (if done right) drop a good 15 to 20C under load. I've seen people hitting 90 C and go down to 70 or less underload. and thats on air.the reason why i have no upgraded from my sandy bridge 2600K. @4.5ghz right now at 1.28 volts and my max temp running intel burn test was 70C (air)
The Von Matrices - Monday, September 30, 2013 - link
Please read my post in response to NeatOman. The result is correct but the reasoning is incorrect.gandergray - Tuesday, October 1, 2013 - link
For information about removing the cpu lid or integrated heat spreader, see the work performed by Idontcare: http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=22618... .iTzSnypah - Monday, September 30, 2013 - link
You are cooling way too much with only 600mm worth of radiators and your deltaT is obscene. Take out 1x GTX780 and retest if possible.NeatOman - Monday, September 30, 2013 - link
I think the thermal paste between the cpu and the lid are the limiting factor here, i believe that not only will 4770K do better with better thermal paste in between the lid and cpu on just air cooling alone but also might have a larger difference between the air and water cooling.And of course there is also a full delid which i think wont be much of a threat because with water cooling you don't need the motherboard to support a large heavy cooler.
NeatOman - Monday, September 30, 2013 - link
Sorry, i meant that you wont need to put a lot of pressure like if you where supporting a large air cooler with the motherboard.The Von Matrices - Monday, September 30, 2013 - link
The issue is not the composition of the thermal paste between the die and the lid; it is the thickness of the thermal paste between the die and the lid. It's widely reported that in Ivy Bridge and Haswell there is way too much of a gap between the die and the lid due to the thickness of the glue used to secure the lid to the package. You can solve this by removing the lid, using a razor blade to remove all the glue, then put on new TIM and place the lid back on the package. No matter what new TIM you use you will get drastically reduced temperatures.Either way, Haswell runs hot due to its FIVR, and there's nothing that can be done through beefier heatsinks, delidding, or changing thermal paste that will make it cooler than an equivalently modified Ivy Bridge.
dragosmp - Monday, September 30, 2013 - link
Still, it is incomplete. The thermal transfer formula is simply Rth=rho*L/S, more thermal resistance (Rth) more the temperature delta is high between the source and ambient: deltaT=Power*RthAsuming the power is constant, to decrease deltaT you need to decrease the thermal resistance, so:
*S is the die surface, can't change that
*L is the thickness of paste - you're right, it needs to be as thin as possible; put 2x too much and you have twice the deltaT
*rho - thermal resistivity (1/lambda) - it depends on the material; Intel does use cheap paste with a conductivity around 3; were they to use fluxless solder or at least some AS5 they'd decrease the thermal resitance by a factor of 2 easily, thus offsetting a thicker than needed layer of paste.
My 2 cents: for performance the paste must be removed and replaced with something better plus as you say remove the glue to reduce the thickness. Of course one should be careful not to chip the die, but these two things really help.